2 WEEKS IN SCOTLAND

We recently went on our first trip overseas as a family of three. We spent almost 2 weeks in Scotland with our 11 month old at the time. We started our trip in Glasgow then headed to Oban continuing to the Scottish Highlands before ending our trip in Edinburgh.

I’ll go through our complete 2 weeks in Scotland itinerary below. This post is great for anyone heading to Scotland but is perfect for families traveling with little ones! If you’re traveling without kids, you’ll probably be able to travel at a quicker pace so I’ll add a few ideas into the post. While we traveled with our daughter, we still were able to cram quite a bit into our trip! Below I’ll go through the best things to do in Scotland to help you plan your trip. We absolutely loved exploring Scotland and look forward to visiting again someday.

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Similar to most places in Europe, the best time to travel Scotland is in the Spring (March to May) and Fall (September to November). Especially last year since the UK experienced record heat in the summer! We visited in September and the weather was great, it was actually warmer than I anticipated. The weather in the Spring generally ranges between 46-55 degrees Fahrenheit and between 41- 57 in the Fall. This is an average though as the weather changes depending on where you’re traveling. We found the east side (Edinburgh and St. Andrews) to be much colder than the west. The crowds also tend to be more mild in the shoulder season. We didn’t find it to be overly crowded anywhere we visited. Edinburgh was the most crowded but we also were in Scotland when the Queen died which brought a lot of people to Edinburgh.

If you’re planning a trip to Scotland, make sure to grab the travel planners linked below. There are a total of 8 templates. Six of the templates list suggestions and travel tips for the most popular cities in Scotland. There is also a place for you to add your travel information as well as blank templates. They’re a great way to plan your trip and stay organized.

We rented a car for our trip to Scotland which was really ideal. We generally rely on public transportation when we travel internationally but thought renting a car would be easier with our daughter. It honestly made the trip a breeze! We were able to leave at our leisure and didn’t have to worry about hauling our stuff on public transportation. Gas was really expensive when we were in Scotland so we rented a hybrid which was great, we only had to fill the tank once! We rented a car through Arnold Clark and were able to pick our car up in Glasgow and drop it off in Edinburgh. Once we arrived to Edinburgh we took the car back and walked everywhere. If you’re traveling to the highlands, I highly recommend renting a car. It’ll be much more convenient for hiking and stopping in cute towns along the way.

One of my favorite things about traveling to Scotland is the varity of landscapes. From big cities like Edinburgh and Glasgow to the Scottish Highlands there is so much to see. As I mentioned, we spent about 12 days exploring. Honestly, we could’ve used a full 2 weeks in Scotland in order to add Isle of Skye onto our itinerary. We had so many places on our Scotland bucket list and had a hard time narrowing it down for 12 days of exploring. If you really want to see Scotland, I recommend spending at least 1-2 weeks in the country.

One of the places I wish we had time to see is Isle of Skye! It looks absolutely spectacular. If you have an extra 2-3 days, I recommend adding Isle of Skye onto your intinerary. If you’re following the route below with a full 2 weeks in Scotland, I would head to Isle of Skye after Fort William prior to Inverness. Traveling at a slightly quicker pace than suggested, I would only spend 1 day in Glasgow, 2 in Inverness, and 3 in Edinburgh to allow for Isle of Skye.

Another top travel tip I have for Scotland is to rent baby/ kid gear. We rented a travel cot and portable high chair through Tiny Explorers which made things so much easier. Since we stayed at several airbnbs it didn’t limit our options. I noticed several airbnbs said no infants due to not having a pack and play however, since we rented one this wasn’t an issue. Tiny Explorers shipped our baby gear to our hotel in Glasgow so it was there upon our arrival. We were able to leave the baby gear at the front desk of our hotel in Edinburgh to be picked up by Tiny Explorers. It was an absolute breeze and we loved the Baby Bjorn pack and play they provided. It was easy to set up and take down which is ideal when you’re moving from place to place.

I recommend spending 1-2 days exploring Glasgow Scotland. It’s a cool city with a great food scene! Max was on a business trip so our daughter and I met him in Glasgow. We kept things pretty mellow while in Glasgow since Max was working. Glasgow is a large city so you will probably want about two days to explore however, it can also be done as a day trip from Edinburgh.

While in Glasgow, I spent ample time exploring Buchanan Street which I really enjoyed. Street performers, restuarants, and shops fill the lively street; it felt like the place to be! Aside from Buchanan Street, visit the Glasgow Cathedral to see the unique Scottish gothic architecture and impressivce stained glass windows. The Necropolis is located next to the Catheral and is considered one of the most significant cemetaries in Europe. From the Glasgow Cathedral and Necropolis, visit the People’s Palace and Winter Gardens which is located along the river. Aside from beautiful gardens, this location will give you an insight into the Glasgow way of life in the 18th to 20th century.

I also recommend visiting Pollock Country Park for serene walking trails in the countryside a few minutes from Glasgow Central. The Kelvingrove Park is another great park to visit on the outskirts of Glasgow. The 85 acre park is located on the river with plenty of green space and walking paths.

WHERE TO STAY:

• We stayed at the Dakota which was excellent! The upscale hotel is a quick walk from Buchanan Street which was convenient for us.

Wake up early on your third morning head to Oban Scotland. It takes less than 2.5 hours to drive from Glasgow to Oban but a stop in Luss Scotland is a must! This adorable town is located along Loch Lomond less than an hour from Glasgow. Depending on what you want to do in town, you’ll probably want a few hours to explore. The main activity in town is, of course, soaking in the charming streets of Luss. Another great activity in town is to take a cruise on Loch Lomond which is one of the largest lakes in Great Britain. You can also cruise from Luss to the village of Balmaha which is another quaint town on Loch Lomond. There are also several walking trails and hiking trails you can go on from town. We absolutely loved exploring this little village!

Continue on to Oban, which is approximately 1.5 hours and spend the evening wandering around the town. The reason most people visit Oban is because it’s a quick ferry ride from Isle of Mull. Oban is actually considered the ‘Gateway to the Isles’ since it’s a short ferry ride to Kerrera, Lismore, Mull, Iona, and Coll. While Oban initially became a tourist destination due to the beautiful Isles nearby, the town itself is worth exploring. Like most, we stayed in Oban to visit the Isles but wound up falling in love with the city. The architecture feels unique and the views of the city on the water are exquisite.

WHERE TO STAY:

• We stayed in one of our favorite airbnbs in Oban! It was a spacious townhome within walking distance to town with two bedrooms, a kitchen, and living room. I highly recommend it especially for families.
• Oban Bay Apartments also look nice and are in a great location.

As the gateway to the Isles, I recommend heading to the Isle of Mull on your first day in Oban. Honestly, the island is so beautiful I wish we spent two days exploring! My suggestion is to book a tour the first day, from there you can decide whether or not you want another day on the island or prefer spending time in Oban. There are several ways you can see the island. You can book a tour, ferry with your car, or ferry and rely on local buses. If you’re doing a tour, I highly recommend booking in advance as tours tend to book up especially during peak season.

The most common tour is the Three Isles Tour to Mull, Iona, and Staffa. This tour takes you to Fionnphort on the Southern potion of the Isle of Mull and then to Iona and Staffa. Iona is supposed to be absolutely spectacular; locals raved about Iona. When we were in Scotland the tour left around 9:30 am returning at 8 pm.

We decided to ferry to the island and take a bus to Tobermory since the day trips were really long. It worked well because I wanted to see Tobermory as I love small towns especially if they’re on the water! Tobermory is colorful with picturesque views and great local shops. It was a perfect day trip for us as we arrived in time for the local farmers market. From there, we enjoyed wandering in and out of shops before grabbing a bite to eat at the Tobermory Bakery & Tea Room. This is a great option if you’re traveling with kids because you can enjoy the Isle of Mull at your pace. There were several buses between the port and Tobermory so you can travel back to Oban at your leisure.

Another option is to bring your car on the ferry so you can travel the island on your own. We booked our ferry tickets the day prior so there wasn’t room for additional vehicles. If you prefer bringing a car, book in advance! However, if you’re driving, don’t expect to see the entire island in one day. We thought we would be able to do Tobermory and Fionnphort. After talking with a tour agency in town, we found it’s not as feasible as it sounds since there are a lot single lane roads.

Either head back to the Isle of Mull on your second morning in Oban or plan to hang around town. We spent a day exploring Oban and really enjoyed it. It’s a relatively small town so it doesn’t take too long to explore. McCaig’s Tower & Battery Hill was our favorite thing to do in town since the viewpoint offers panoramic views of Oban. It’s a quick walk from town so I suggest walking but it’s also driveable. The Oban Distillery is debatably the most popular thing to do in town. It’s open daily from 10 am to 5 pm for tastings and tours. Another popular thing to do in town is visit the Oban Chocolate Company. The shop is on the water with an excellent views so it’s a great place to sit back and relax with some delicious chocolate!

Another option is to ferry to one of the nearby islands Kerrera or Lismore. Kerrera is known for beautiful walking trailing, pony trekking, and Gylen Castle. The island is 4 miles around with several trails to chose from depending on how much time you have. The ferry to Kerrera leaves from Gallanach which is about two miles south of Oban, it’s not necessary to book in advance for foot passengers. Lismore is a slightly larger island known for walking trails, biking, paddle boarding, and kayaking. You can access the island via ferry from Oban which is approximately an hour long journey.

On your 6th day in Scotland, head to Fort William with a stop in Glencoe. I’ve tweaked this itinerary slightly to allow for a stop in Glencoe. We didn’t have time to stop which we were bummed by because it’s supposed to be beautiful. Glencoe Scotland is known for waterfalls and beautiful hiking trails so I suggest heading there early enough to hike! There are several easy, moderate, and difficult hikes you can do in the area. I can’t comment on how any of the trails are to hike with a baby since we didn’t go but Lost Valley looks beautiful! The hike is approximately 4 km and takes about 3 hours to hike. If you’re really into hiking there are several all day hikes in the area as well. If we weren’t traveling with a baby, Pap of Glencoe (7km), Buachaille Etive Mor (14km), and Buachaille Etive Beag (8km) would be at the top of our list!

Depeding on the hike you choose, you’ll likely arrive to Fort William Scotland in the early afternoon. The downtown is small and charming with several restaurants. Similar to Glencoe, Fort William is known for beautiful hiking trails! My suggestion is to take an easy walk near town upon arrival and do a more strenuous hike in the morning. Walking options near town include the Inverlochy Castle Circular Walk and the Glen Nevis Riverwalk.

WHERE TO STAY:

• We stayed in an airbnb close to Fort William. The airbnb was a small pod which was cool and great for our one night stay. The location was convenient and it was plenty of space for our family of 3. We highly recommend it!

Go for a hike in the area prior to heading to Inverness Scotland which is less than 2 hours from Fort William. Ben Nevis is the most popular trail in the area but it’s an all day hike. If you’re up for a challenge, it’s definitely the hike to do! We hiked the Steall Gorge and Waterfall at the base of Ben Nevis which was perfect for us. We were able to enjoy excellent mountain views and an incredible waterfall. The out and back trail is approximately 5.6 km and took us less than two hours to complete. The trail was a bit steep in a few places but moderate overall. We found the trail to be family friendly as we carried our daughter in a baby carrier and we saw a few other babies on the trail! As I mentioned, if you have a full 2 weeks in Scotland, leave for Isle of Skye on day 7 instead of Inverness.

Assuming you’re not doing an all day hike, make a stop at Loch Ness on your way to Inverness. You’ll pretty much pass through Loch Ness so it’s a great stop along the way. I recommend booking a tour in advance leaving yourself plenty of cushion in case your hike runs long. Most tour companies won’t give you a refund if you miss the tour but will allow you to attend a later tour. We know this from experience – haha. There are a few tours you can choose from to explore Loch Ness, we decided on the one hour catamaran tour around the Loch. It was a pretty basic tour but we enjoyed site seeing from the boat and learning a little more about Nessie.

You’ll likely arrive to Inverness in time to wander around town a bit and grab a bite to eat! We ate at Scotch & Rye on our first evening in Inverness and the burgers were delicious!

WHERE TO STAY:

• We liked our airbnb in Inverness too; it was a spacious 1 bedroom apartment. The airbnb was also a quick walk to town which we love.

As I mentioned, I’m tweaking this itinerary slightly to add in a few things I wish we did. As the capital of the highlands, there are several day trips that can be done from Inverness. We spent the majority of our time in Inverness but ideally I would’ve added a day in Inverness to see more of the highlands.

My top choice for a day trip near Inverness is Cairngorms which is the largest national park in the UK. The park is approximately 20 miles south of Inverness with three main entrances into the park which I’ve linked. The park is huge with everything from hiking and biking trails to several castles and outdoor activities. Since it’s such a big park, I recommend heading in with a game plan! I should mention, if you’re following a similar route as us and continuing on to St. Andrews from Inverness you’ll pass the general area of Cairngorms National Park. However, I don’t recommend stopping at the park along the way because it’ll take too much time.

You can also visit the Isle of Skye from Inverness. While it’s a long 2 hour trek each way, Inverness is one of the closest major cities to the Isle of Skye making a day trip doable. Since the Isle of Skye is pretty large I highly recommend booking a tour. This way you don’t have to worry about driving and can efficiently see the highlights of the Isle. The best day trip I saw included a stop at Eilean Donan Castle, Portree, Old Man of Storr, and more. We were really disappointed we didn’t have time to visit the Isle of Skye as Portree looks like a dream!

Another option is to go on the Hogwarts Express tour which was at the top of Max’s list! The tour includes a train ride along some of Scotland’s most stunning scenery. The train travels into the highlands and around the west coast with views of ancient ruins, a war memorial, gorgeous beaches, and a waterfall. You’ll enjoy lunch in the fishing village of Mallaig before boarding the Jacobite Steam Train – one of the world’s most scenic railways.

Inverness is slightly smaller than I anticipated so I only recommend spending 1 full day in town exploring. We had one main day in town which we spent hiking and exploring Inverness. We started our day by hiking the Fryish Monument which is about 40 minutes from Inverness. It’s a great hike for families as it’s not too strenuous and the views are phenomenal! We actually went on a hazy day and still enjoyed the views. We enjoyed waking up early and getting a hike in before spending the rest of our day in Inverness.

The main site to see in town is the Inverness Castle for a panoramic view of Inverness. You can’t go inside the castle but the views from the grounds are spectacular. One of my favorite things to do in Inverness was walking the 3-mile path around the Ness Islands. While enjoying the view along the river you can make stops at the Inverness Cathedral, Inverness Botanic Gardens, and Whin Park. The path is a great way to explore Inverness. The Victoria Market is another popular activity in town, It’s a shopping arcade which dates back to 1890. It’s the perfect place to do a little shopping and enjoy coffee or tea at the cafes/ restaurants in the market. We didn’t have time to visit Leakey’s Bookshop or the Abertaff House but both are supposed to be great activities in town.

St. Andrews is roughly 3 hours from Inverness so I recommend getting a jump on the day! There are a lot of places you’ll stop along the way which is why you’ll want to leave early. My suggestion is to create a rough guide of where you want to stop but keep it flexible. There are so many stops you’ll want to make! We wound up stopping at Blair Castle, Glamis Castle, and Dundee prior to St. Andrews. Both castles were stunning but Glamis Castle is the stop to make. The castle dates back to 1372 and is said to have inspired some of Shakespeare’s most famous work. You can take a self-guided tour through the castle and walk around the absolutely beautiful grounds and gardens. With that said, Blair Castle is a more convenient stop to make. The castle dates back to 1269 with a diverse history, home to the Atholl family for over 750 years. We enjoyed walking the grounds. Honestly, I would skip Dundee and add a stop in Pitlochry instead. The town looks adorable and I wish we made the stop! As I said, keep your day flexible since there is so much to see.

We didn’t spend the night in St. Andrews and really regret not having more time there. It’s worth staying the night if you like small towns as the downtown is filled with restaurants and shops. St. Andrews is most well known as the Home of Golf but there is actually a lot to see. The Old Course in St. Andrews is the oldest golf course in the world dating back to 1552. While in town, make time for the St. Andrews Cathedral and St. Andrews Castle and Botanical Garden. The town is also situated along the coast with an absolutely stunning coastline.

If you have time to drive the coast of Fife prior to heading to Edinburgh, it’s worth it! It takes a lot longer but you’ll be able to enjoy charming small towns and beautiful views along the coast. Depending on the route you take, Edinburgh is approximately 1.5 hours from St. Andrews.

Edinburgh happened to be my favorite stop in Scotland as it’s a lively city with stunning architecture and so much history. Since Edinburgh is such a big city, I really recommend spending at least 3 days in town so you don’t feel rushed. We had about 3.5 days which was perfect! Since there is so much to do in Edinburgh I’ll go through the top sites to see and things to do in town.

WHERE TO STAY:

• We stayed at Ten Hill Place which was excellent! The hotel is a quick walk from the Royal Mile which we loved. The room was clean and spacious.

My favorite activity in Edinburgh is hiking to Arthur’s Seat which is the highest point in Holyrood Park. The view is amazing and you’ll work up a good sweat! It takes about 1.5 hours to complete depending on where you start from in town. We discovered there are actually a few paths leading to the top of Arthur’s Seat. I wouldn’t recommend the path we took up as it was really challenging with a baby. We took the path that starts/ends near St. Margaret’s Well on the way down which was much easier. It was really windy at the top so check weather conditions while you’re in Edinburgh and go on the least windy day!

Calton Hill also offers excellent views of Edinburgh especially at sunrise. Along with a great view, there are iconic Scottish monuments and buildings located on the hill as well as the City Observatory. You’ll want to set aside time to soak in the view and explore the monuments. It’s a much quicker walk from town since it’s located on the edge of Princess Street.

I recommend spending 1 day exploring the Old Town and another exploring the outskirts. In the Old Town, you won’t be able to miss the Edinburgh Castle, Royal Mile, and Holyrood Palace. Perched on a hill atop a (dormant) volcano, the Edinburgh Castle dates back to 1103 and is a site to be seen. The castle housed many Kings and Queens throughout history. Fun fact: The Scottish crown jewels used in the coronation of Scottish monarchs were locked in a chest in the Edinburgh Castle in 1707 and were forgetten about for more than a century. They’ve been on display in the castle since being rediscovered in 1818. I highly recommend booking a tour of the castle to view the castle and learn about its interesting past. The Edinburgh Castle is at the top of the Royal Mile and if you continue walking to the end you’ll hit Holyrood Palace. Founded in 1128 the Holyrood Palace is the official residence of the Monarchy in Scotland. The Palace is open to visitors year round so you can book a tour to view the grounds. I really recommend booking a walking tour of the Old Town as well. We learned so much about the history of Edinburgh on our tour. A few other areas that cannot be missed in this area are Princess Street and Victoria Street.

Approximately 20 minutes walking from main attractions (Royal Mile, Princess Street, etc) is Dean Village which is a hidden gem in Edinburgh. The former medieval suburb is located along a river and was home to a large water milling industry. Well Court is the most recognizable place in Dean Village which was built in the 1880s and housed local workers working at the water mills. You can take a walk along the walkway following the Water of Leith for views of Dean Bridge and St. Bernard’s Well. About a half mile from St. Bernard’s Well, is Circus Lane which has quickly become a popular spot in Edinburgh. The houses along the street were built in the 1760s for affluent residents moving outside of the crowded old town. Honestly, the street is beautiful but it’s really become an instagram photo op. Circus Lane is around the corner from New Town so I recommend heading there next. New Town was built between 1767 and 1850 and is known for the incredible architecture, restaurants, and shopping.

We had the best time exploring Scotland with our daughter! She was a trooper and it was such a great experience. I hope this post helps you put together the perfect itinerary for your Scotland trip. If you have any questions or recommendations leave me a comment below.

Safe Travels,

Sarah :)

I’ve linked a few of my favorite travel essentials below! For more of my favorite travel gear, check out our travel shop. Let me know if you have any questions on any of the items, I would be happy to answer!

As I mentioned earlier, the travel planners I’ve linked below are a great way to get organized and ready for your trip! Everything you need to know for a trip to Scotland is included in the planners as well as space to add your trip information.